The engine rebuild shall begun

[CosmicWanderer]

Wedge something as a shim between the slave rod and release fork to see if you just need the extended rod? Prime MR2 says theirs is 1/4" longer than standard.

Actually, earlier I added a small nut (maybe close to 1/5'' in length) to the slave rod, but to no avail; however, I'm thinking of making a new slave rod and making it around 1/4'' longer in length. Let's see. If it still doesn't do the job, something's much more serious than initially thought.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Here's a short sequence while testing the engagement of the clutch. Notice that even though the clutch is depressed fully, the disengagement is not done totally. With the clutch depressed, I tried to rotate the clutch disc manually with hand but it's not moving. Starter is not installed to get a clearer view of what's happening.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

After making a rod longer as seen in the picture, which costed 5 bucks, tried it but didn't disengage again.

I will replace the clutch kit again, now another brand. Let's see...

 

[CosmicWanderer]

So, after reinstalling old clutch disc and cover, but leaving new clutch bearing, I think I've come down to two suspects: clutch cover OR clutch disc OR both.

The new clutch disc measures 8.5mm in thickness. I've got an information that this is the standard thickness for Japanese cars. Therefore, hard to make a decision, but could be the clutch cover, if that's the case.

Anyone got info whether ST185 clutch disc thickness size is 8.5mm? The worn out clutch disc measures around 6.5mm therefore not really practicable to install and use it.

UPDATE: the problem is with the clutch cover: I've again tried old clutch cover with the new clutch disc, it disengages! Maybe I can thin the clutch cover by few millimeters?

 

[alltracman78]

You may be able to get a machine shop to do that, I definitely wouldn't do it by hand.
That's a tough situation. Aftermarket stuff seems to get crappier and crappier.
Any chance you can return it?
I would think the clutch from the 5 speed Caldina should work? OEM.

Your flywheel is toast too. Look how heat treated it is. It won't cause the problems your having right now, but it may cause chatter/slipping down the road. Better to replace while it's out.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

You may be able to get a machine shop to do that, I definitely wouldn't do it by hand.
That's a tough situation. Aftermarket stuff seems to get crappier and crappier.
Any chance you can return it?
I would think the clutch from the 5 speed Caldina should work? OEM.

Your flywheel is toast too. Look how heat treated it is. It won't cause the problems your having right now, but it may cause chatter/slipping down the road. Better to replace while it's out.

Yes, I'll send it to a machine shop. And will tell them to polish. But not yet. Here's why:

I still have some suspicions about flywheel replacement thing. Since the number of old CPP correlated with SACHS and fits Hilux, Dyna, Hiace, etc., maybe getting the same clutch pressure plate with the old number will do the job.
For example, supersession of "3082 672 001" (stamped in old CPP) is "3082 313 941", which then is cross referenced again with:

Below on the left is the full image of above clutch pressure plate, and in the right (second picture) is the equivalent AISIN number of CPP OE Toyota which I got from EPC:


Notice the difference in the center, the finger gap? And the finger pointing in the left is more narrow, rather than the right which is a bit wider.

By the way, the old clutch cover is slightly thicker than the new clutch cover. Another dubious thing that the shaving of 1mm would be futile.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

I've bought another clutch pressure plate, this time equivalent to the old number, and I've installed it, but no time to install transmission and test disengagement.

Picture memories say that today, 1 year ago, I've met for the first time with this ST185. Here's the condition of engine bay when I've opened it:

 

[RedCelicaTRD]

At least it's easy to tell where the oil leaks are!

 

[CosmicWanderer]

At least it's easy to tell where the oil leaks are!

It just made it even more problematic, there was oil everywhere and everything was covered in oil. As a procedure, for such cars with heavy leaks, I clean them using some anti-oil liquid then drive it. Afterwards the source of oil leak is easily spotted. On this case, since I tore the engine completely, I've replaced every gasket and seal ring which came all beautifully in a set.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Does not work. Longer pushrod, shorter pushrod, not working. The bearing applies pressure to clutch pressure plate, but not enough force to disengage the clutch. Now, I don't really know what to do. Except installing old clutch pressure plate and call it a day.

 

[RedCelicaTRD]

Could there be an issue with the fork? I don't know if you can adjust the pivot ball. Maybe a washer/shim under that would help?

Or I could be going the wrong direction and a shim would make it worse. Not enough brain power left on a Friday.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Could there be an issue with the fork? I don't know if you can adjust the pivot ball. Maybe a washer/shim under that would help?

Or I could be going the wrong direction and a shim would make it worse. Not enough brain power left on a Friday.

If it was an issue with the fork, I think the old clutch cover won't work either. If it was for the washer or a shim, then this would make sense only for the old clutch cover since it's worn out, but not the new ones? Just my thoughts.

 

[RedCelicaTRD]

I'm just throwing ideas out here. You've replaced basically everything else, right? Only the clutch fork is left? If you're still on the original flywheel maybe it is too thin?

Did you drive this much before the clutch replacement?

 

[CosmicWanderer]

I'm just throwing ideas out here. You've replaced basically everything else, right? Only the clutch fork is left? If you're still on the original flywheel maybe it is too thin?

Did you drive this much before the clutch replacement?

Yes, I understand and appreciate your effort. Well, yes, maybe only clutch fork. But I need proper assurance to buy a clutch fork. I was saying, if it works with an old clutch cover, why wouldn't it work with the new one? It is strange.

Also, I did not drive this car at all; take a look at previous posts; got it with catastrophic engine failure, repaired it, but couldn't move an inch due to clutch-related problems.

 

[RedCelicaTRD]

We don't really know how well the clutch was working on the old clutch cover since you didn't drive it, correct? Any other history on the car? Did you know the old owner by chance?

Yeah, the clutch fork is a bit of a stretch. I'd probably measure the flywheel first and check that. I would inspect the pivot ball for the fork and the socket the ball fits in on the fork really well and see if anything looks funny. I wouldn't think someone could bend the fork with it in the car; I would think the clutch cover would blow up first.

You're probably getting pretty good at getting the trans back together with the engine!

 

[underscore]

Maybe a dumb idea but if someone put a wonky clutch in maybe the put in the wrong fork for some reason as well. I have no clue how you'd verify that though.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

We don't really know how well the clutch was working on the old clutch cover since you didn't drive it, correct? Any other history on the car? Did you know the old owner by chance?

Yeah, the clutch fork is a bit of a stretch. I'd probably measure the flywheel first and check that. I would inspect the pivot ball for the fork and the socket the ball fits in on the fork really well and see if anything looks funny. I wouldn't think someone could bend the fork with it in the car; I would think the clutch cover would blow up first.

I can confirm that the old clutch set was working because I can see visible signs of disengagement. How well it worked? Couldn't know. Without the starter, I pull engine and trans closer to chassis which I hook up the slave cylinder which has already the clutch hose hooked, and depress clutch pedal. With a flashlight I can see and via screwdriver I can confirm that clutch is totally separated - i.e.: it moves freely. Clutch pedal doesn't have any freeplay though.
I do know the owner and he told me that the clutch was recently changed before engine failure (around 2003/2004 ish) somewhere in Sweden, if I recall correctly. But the clutch is worn out measuring around 6mm thick.

You're probably getting pretty good at getting the trans back together with the engine!

Ah yes, an expert of uninstall and installation of engine with trans. Humor based on my pain.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Maybe a dumb idea but if someone put a wonky clutch in maybe the put in the wrong fork for some reason as well. I have no clue how you'd verify that though.

Oh yeah, it could be. There's so many possibilities and trying them all costs a fortune of time. In the next days, I maybe will install old clutch cover but leaving others new, call it a day, and move on. When any component fails such as clutch disc, cover or bearing in the future, I will replace clutch kit set with the flywheel as well.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Sometimes, when I reflect on what I’ve worked on so far and what still lies ahead, I’m amazed. It prompts me to ask myself: How did I start this project so suddenly, in the blink of an eye, on the night of March 1, 2024? I mean, come on—we love cars. I, for one, would adore owning a W222 S65. But repairing a 90s “wreck”? It’s incredible what the human mind is capable of. I attribute it all to the brain’s reward system—dopamine, mostly—and perhaps a dash of emotion. But enough of these psychological musings. She’s a sleeping beauty, isn’t she? Here’s a picture from the afternoon of March 2, 2024:



A few weeks ago, while I had the engine running, I noticed a nearly continuous stream of oil leaking from the steering rack. With a leak that bad, I’d bet I couldn’t drive more than 50 km (about 31 miles in freedom units) without running out of power steering fluid. So, since the engine was already out, I grabbed a power steering repair kit and fixed that cursed steering rack. I also replaced the two bellows while I was at it and swapped out one inner tie rod that was shot:



Guess we’ll just have to wait and see what surprises the future’s got in store.

 

[Roreri]

Determination and dedication.