Monachopsis
Member
Might have to be as heavy as a steel bar to be worth the strength, if I make one do you want one? Was thinking about just welding it up to the oem tow points or bolting, was thinking about welding so you can tow from the rally bar
Project 621; Imported ST185
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Monachopsis
Member
So I'm going to put in the St205 intercooler here shortly. I had a couple questions. No1. The blow off valve location, I'll need to block it off for the time being but how do you do that? just cup it? Also where do you pull the respected vaccums for that BOV and if I wanted to recirculate it any recommendations? No2. Any dos and don'ts? No3. What is the purpose of this hose and how do I route it in a St185? Cheers!
grip-addict
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1
Make sure it's air tight since it'll be under pressure. I don't know if this is the right size but something like this would do the trick
1b
Use anywhere that sees boost. Intake Manifold is a good bet. Or the back of the wta core if you have a port there (That's what I used)
1c
Just make sure you research to the intake prior to the turbo. If you have an AFM in your car still it will drive a lot better with the recirc.
3
Is that part of the factory catch can set up? Hard to see from the photo on my phone. If so, it drains back to a port on the back of the head. The port is very close to the water neck but aiming towards the firewall
Make sure it's air tight since it'll be under pressure. I don't know if this is the right size but something like this would do the trick
1b
Use anywhere that sees boost. Intake Manifold is a good bet. Or the back of the wta core if you have a port there (That's what I used)
1c
Just make sure you research to the intake prior to the turbo. If you have an AFM in your car still it will drive a lot better with the recirc.
3
Is that part of the factory catch can set up? Hard to see from the photo on my phone. If so, it drains back to a port on the back of the head. The port is very close to the water neck but aiming towards the firewall
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Monachopsis
Member
No3 is the vaccum line on the back of the intercooler. I have no idea where to route it. Thank you for all the help. I was gonna run a unit like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...vi9CFesqO0ioF5XvGWxg7mpRHjMTewu8aAj8vEALw_wcB
So I can tune how much recirc I want
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Monachopsis
Member
STEP FORWARD WOOT
So I got my rear fenders rolled! I was rubbing quite a bit so I decided to roll them just as a good practice. While I got them rolled I went to the local Toyota stealership and asked what a motor rebuild would run. Crank was only 850 something. All in new bottom end would sit $3200. Now not bad, would be a solution BUT I was messin about with the boys and I found someone with a low mileage motor on Facebook Market place and they'll sell the whole bottom end for 300. So here's my plan; due to the glittery oil I am worried the motor is on it's way out. Fair assumption, it runs good but for how long? I buy this 60k mile bottom end, store and slowly build it (LW flywheel, forged internals, stroker maybe?) as money comes OR if the motor does go I have it on standby. These means on the 13th during the next rally, no holding back. If the motor goes I have another and it's just money in the pit.
As for the intercooler I am still trying to figure out what the line in the back of it does. I am painting it right now. I have a catch can with port WAY too small but thats my bad. I'll install it, and if its popping out the dipstick I'll order another. Turbo blanket will go on once I can get this stupid heatshield off.
Not to mention I PUSHED the car yesterday. About 100km of HARD driving on HWY24. Trying to get faster as well as poke and prod with the car. I have BG EPR and MOA on the way that I will used to flush the engine with in hopes that my oil stops giving glitter. If not secondary engine should be in the making. If so I'll just build a block on the side to have and swap when deemed good.
So I got my rear fenders rolled! I was rubbing quite a bit so I decided to roll them just as a good practice. While I got them rolled I went to the local Toyota stealership and asked what a motor rebuild would run. Crank was only 850 something. All in new bottom end would sit $3200. Now not bad, would be a solution BUT I was messin about with the boys and I found someone with a low mileage motor on Facebook Market place and they'll sell the whole bottom end for 300. So here's my plan; due to the glittery oil I am worried the motor is on it's way out. Fair assumption, it runs good but for how long? I buy this 60k mile bottom end, store and slowly build it (LW flywheel, forged internals, stroker maybe?) as money comes OR if the motor does go I have it on standby. These means on the 13th during the next rally, no holding back. If the motor goes I have another and it's just money in the pit.
As for the intercooler I am still trying to figure out what the line in the back of it does. I am painting it right now. I have a catch can with port WAY too small but thats my bad. I'll install it, and if its popping out the dipstick I'll order another. Turbo blanket will go on once I can get this stupid heatshield off.
Not to mention I PUSHED the car yesterday. About 100km of HARD driving on HWY24. Trying to get faster as well as poke and prod with the car. I have BG EPR and MOA on the way that I will used to flush the engine with in hopes that my oil stops giving glitter. If not secondary engine should be in the making. If so I'll just build a block on the side to have and swap when deemed good.
That's interesting what the stealership quoted you.
You could just get your hands on a 2GR if you're already thinking new motor. You have the skills and facilities to do the block shaving and any bolt pattern modifications for mating it to the e153.
You could just get your hands on a 2GR if you're already thinking new motor. You have the skills and facilities to do the block shaving and any bolt pattern modifications for mating it to the e153.
Monachopsis
Member
Yea I do, but ecu, tune, and all the other "it'll be an easy swap" that you never consider would pile up quick. Sure maybe if I land this internship that pays great, I'll buy a long block and keep it. I really want to do the 2gr as it would be dope to have 300 awhp NA hp, but even cooler to have 400 supercharged hp. Weight isn't an issue as the aluminum block saves weight. 2GR weighs only an extra 60lbs wet. Long story short it'll fit, but then you likely need a standalone ECU, a tune for said ecu, new cooling setup, gasket rebuilt parts, time rebuild, etc etc. The engine is only $1000, but with tune and ecu (assuming everything else goes super smooth and "just" works) you're looking at an easy $4000-5000. It's worth it for sure, and I'd do it, if I wasn't a broke college student.
For right now, I can get that second hand shortblock for under 600 to my door. It just makes the most economical sense right now. I don't hate the 3S-GTE, I think it's a relic with very loveable issues like the lag. At this rate any 'big money' swaps for me would be a G16e-GTS. Keep it in the rally family.
Solid reasoning.
grip-addict
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Just use that vac port on the intercooler to run your bov
Monachopsis
Member
wait really? That'll work? Thought it would need to go on the engine
It can go anywhere it has access to boost pressure that needs to escape rather than go back to the turbo.
underscore
Well-known member
I thought the trigger line for the BOV had to be after the throttle body?
I need to educate myself, it seems.
Ah, yes. The sensor has to be after the throttle body.
Ah, yes. The sensor has to be after the throttle body.
grip-addict
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Nah it's fine to run from the ic core. The differences between hooking it up there and actually from the intake manifold are minuscule.
underscore
Well-known member
But then you won't have a pressure difference when the throttle plate closes to set off the BOV.
grip-addict
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I understand what you are saying. Intake manifold seems like it would be the most ideal place.
Unfortunately I am here to make one of the type of posts I normally hate: I had mine set up this way for years and it worked great.
Unfortunately I am here to make one of the type of posts I normally hate: I had mine set up this way for years and it worked great.
I mean, not having to modify an intercooler pipe and weld and shit sounds like a whole lot of plusses and if there's no minuses then that's a compelling argument.
underscore
Well-known member
Hey if it works, it works. That would've saved a lot of us mangling our hands trying to get the stupid vacuum cap off the spare port on the back on the manifold over the years.
Monachopsis
Member
So that line isn't important to running the IC? I can just cap it for the time being? As far as the BOV goes I was gonna pull vacuum from the large vacuum hose on the left side of the intake.