Rear Toe Adjustment

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Landon

Landon

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Joined
Nov 10, 2008
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Location
Joseph, Oregon
hey guys, so i know how our rear toe bar works. my question is- is there a aftermarket option to make adjusting this easier? say going from the cams to using an adjustable tie rod.. reason i ask is i am taking a machining class and am thinking about modifying my rear tie rods to be more simple to adjust. i believe it will be fairly simple to do and make a big difference. let me know what you think.
http://www.ecstuning.com/groupheaders/i ... 00x375.jpg (something like these)
 
I dont understand... why do you want to adjust the toe at all?
Its a set and forget adjustment.

Its not as if you need to adjust it every month... or even 6 months.
 
um.. for me it is sorta a frequent adjustment. i replaced the bushings in the rear and some of the locking cams thing got messed up. like it holds fine and my car stays aligned.. but for simplicity, quality, and a project for my machining class i kinda wanna make something different. it seems like a more sophisticated design. maybe not.
 
Toe will change quite a lot on an eccentric setup like ours with any kind of significant lateral force applied to the rear wheels. The eccentric can slip. As rear toe has a pretty dramatic effect on handling in our cars, it's good to keep a close eye on it.

The easiest solution is to just make a threaded adjustment bar with a pair of heim joints and some jam nuts. Eccentrics are an amazingly stupid method of suspension adjustment.
 
yeah simba, thats what i thought. is the threaded ajustment bar kinda like what i'm thinking to do? i'm thinkin to just make a whole new toe bar and make it so it can bolt in solid without the chance of it to move. any ideas of how to bolt it in more solidly? like maybe replace the tabs that it bolts into?
 
gtfour77":r2i6t03a said:
Rear suspension control arms. I will only sell this with the rear subframe as the subframe itself is modified a bit. Where the adjustable stock "cam" bolt used to be I welded 1/4" squares to prevent any sort of movement and reinforce the ears. On the spindle side, stock spherical bearings are used so this assembly is 100% bolt on and infinitely adjustable for tow and track width (camber). You can use stock trailing arms with it (poly bushings). This will prevent any sort of toe change in mid corner and will stabilize the rear end. Ask questions!
5012430068_a0722e4c86_b.jpg

5012429600_cb765251e5_b.jpg

5012429152_d492f69f7d_b.jpg
Click to expand...
this is exactly what i'm taking about...
 
Redoing the lower arms is kind of overkill on a street car, but you can certainly do so. That's a good example of how to fab the toe bar. Although, I prefer to just use two heim joints rather than mess around with a factory-ish clamp on the wheel side.
 
yeah i was mosting looking at that for the toe bar and the welded on plates look like a good idea. what do you mean by the heim joints?
 
Let's revisit this idea.

Any other aftermarket solultions?

I really hate the setup of the eccentric to adjust the camber. For one, the oem sleeve and bushing are all "rust welded" together making it impossible (until i get it loose) to change the bushing.

Bryhan
 
I've been kicking around the idea of doing a few sets out of chromoly, might be inclined to do a few extra if there's enough interest.
 
I know myself +1 friend would probably want a setup like this, of course cost dependent.

Moly Heim joints are on ebay for super cheap XD

Also, Simba how would you go about attaching the heim joint on the wheel side?
 
I emailed a place that makes arms for mk3 supras if they would sell the arm bracket on its own. If the size matches up, this might be out option to get the parts we need. I started a thread about it in the handling section cause I am trying to make camber arms.
 
Erm you really need to FEA the design and also have public liability insurance to sell these sorts of arms.

One of these snaps on the highway and someone dies.......possibly prison time!

Not trying to be a nay-sayer but I was looking into this myself for both the 185 and 205.

Personally, even for a personal set, I'd be using T45 or the suchlike.

John
 

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