Passenger Window just stopped?
- Thread starter Indy3sgte
- Start date
I've not checked the wiring diagrams, but I can't imagine a separate fuse per window.
How to diagnose a bad window motor:
Pull off the interior door panel, locate window motor. with your multimeter, measure for DC voltage at the motor (It should be 2 wires, polarity switches based on the direction that the motor needs to turn). Actuate the window switch and ensure you have 12vdc reading on your multimeter (try each wire).
If you see 12vdc:
-motor is not turning - replace it
-motor is turning - you probably have a torn gear, replace it.
If you don't see voltage at all:
-you have an open in your circuit, report back here and we can go through the wiring diagram to help locate the open
How to diagnose a bad window motor:
Pull off the interior door panel, locate window motor. with your multimeter, measure for DC voltage at the motor (It should be 2 wires, polarity switches based on the direction that the motor needs to turn). Actuate the window switch and ensure you have 12vdc reading on your multimeter (try each wire).
If you see 12vdc:
-motor is not turning - replace it
-motor is turning - you probably have a torn gear, replace it.
If you don't see voltage at all:
-you have an open in your circuit, report back here and we can go through the wiring diagram to help locate the open
What happens when you use the window switch? Is there a noise? a motor running? Is it silent?
Basically there are 3 things to look at. the window switch, the regulator, the motor. I don't remember if the motor and regulator came as one unit on 185s, its been ages since I opened up a door panel on mine.
You could start at the fuse, but more than likely its one of the 3 I named.
Basically there are 3 things to look at. the window switch, the regulator, the motor. I don't remember if the motor and regulator came as one unit on 185s, its been ages since I opened up a door panel on mine.
You could start at the fuse, but more than likely its one of the 3 I named.
ST165-2765
New member
I don't know about ST185's but the ST165's have a window lock button on the drivers side control, if this is activated the passenger side window will not work. I know this from personal experience/stupidity 
On the drivers side control you can raise/lower the passenger side window does that switch work or is it just the switch in the passengers side door that doesn't work.
On the drivers side control you can raise/lower the passenger side window does that switch work or is it just the switch in the passengers side door that doesn't work.
After the interior door is off, unplug the wiring to the power window motor. It'll be a 2-pronged plug. Now take 2 leads from a 12V battery and run them to the two prongs (deosn't matter which side to which). The window should go up or down. If it does, you know the motor's ok and it's most likely the switch or wiring.
alltracman78
Active member
Psssht to all that.
The easiest way is to unplug the motor wiring connector and hook up a test light to it [you can ground one side to anywhere, or stick a paper clip in the connector and ground it there], then hit the switch. If you ground to somewhere else, probe both terminals.
If the test light lights up, switch/wiring is good and motor is bad.
If not, it's something in the switch or wiring.
The easiest way is to unplug the motor wiring connector and hook up a test light to it [you can ground one side to anywhere, or stick a paper clip in the connector and ground it there], then hit the switch. If you ground to somewhere else, probe both terminals.
If the test light lights up, switch/wiring is good and motor is bad.
If not, it's something in the switch or wiring.
darthripley
Moderator
on MKI MR2's there is a little plastic gear inside the motor that wears out with time & use causing the window not to go up or down anymore.
i'm not sure if alltrac's are the same way or not :shrug:
good luck!
i'm not sure if alltrac's are the same way or not :shrug:
good luck!
mnwolftrack
New member
These are the most common power window problems I see on any Toyota (I've owned MANY) are this:
1) the window switch itself is acting up. They can usually be disassembled and cleaned, and the copper rockers inside of them can be rebent just a hair so they make contact again. They also get gunk built up on the surfaces and need to be sanded down with fine sand paper line 400 grit. Years of the switches being used (especially if someone really reams on them) will slowly bend the copper rockers over time.
2) the brushes inside the electric motor have worn down. This would mean that the passenger window would have been used A LOT to wear the brushes down that much. Usually, it's the driver's door that has this problem.
3) the wiring through the rubber bootie in the door jamb has succumbed over the years to door opening and closing and the wires are starting to break.
4) the window is binding.
Can you at least hear the motor attempting to make the glass go up or down? A test light will help, but it won't tell you if the motor is just getting weak or if it's working intermittently, but as mentioned, it will tell you if it's at least getting power.
For good measure, I usually pull the switches apart and clean them as my first step in window diagnosis, usually because it's the main culprit, and second, because it probably needed to be done anyway.
My initial guesses are that your window is NOT binding and the motor is not getting weak because these problems tend to occur slowly over time and get more noticeable. But if the brushes stop making contact, the wires break, or the switch is acting up, these will certainly cause the window to stop working all of a sudden (when it had been working just fine before).
Even if you can't find the problem, you might be able to get the window up again for now. This is assuming you'll have enough clearance to get wrenches in the door to either get the motor off so you can manually push the window back up (then put the motor back on to hold the window up, or use a piece of wood to block it up), or, you might be able to unbolt the window from the regulator and pull the window out so you can get the motor/regulator out.
1) the window switch itself is acting up. They can usually be disassembled and cleaned, and the copper rockers inside of them can be rebent just a hair so they make contact again. They also get gunk built up on the surfaces and need to be sanded down with fine sand paper line 400 grit. Years of the switches being used (especially if someone really reams on them) will slowly bend the copper rockers over time.
2) the brushes inside the electric motor have worn down. This would mean that the passenger window would have been used A LOT to wear the brushes down that much. Usually, it's the driver's door that has this problem.
3) the wiring through the rubber bootie in the door jamb has succumbed over the years to door opening and closing and the wires are starting to break.
4) the window is binding.
Can you at least hear the motor attempting to make the glass go up or down? A test light will help, but it won't tell you if the motor is just getting weak or if it's working intermittently, but as mentioned, it will tell you if it's at least getting power.
For good measure, I usually pull the switches apart and clean them as my first step in window diagnosis, usually because it's the main culprit, and second, because it probably needed to be done anyway.
My initial guesses are that your window is NOT binding and the motor is not getting weak because these problems tend to occur slowly over time and get more noticeable. But if the brushes stop making contact, the wires break, or the switch is acting up, these will certainly cause the window to stop working all of a sudden (when it had been working just fine before).
Even if you can't find the problem, you might be able to get the window up again for now. This is assuming you'll have enough clearance to get wrenches in the door to either get the motor off so you can manually push the window back up (then put the motor back on to hold the window up, or use a piece of wood to block it up), or, you might be able to unbolt the window from the regulator and pull the window out so you can get the motor/regulator out.
Wow thanks for the numerous responses! First things first I am going to check the lock switch :shrug: because neither the passenge or the switch on the driver side worked so I will def have one of those moments...after that I am going to clean the switches and hook up a test light and I'll let you guys know what happends. Thanks for the help.
Daniel
thanks for the numerous responses! First things first I am going to check the lock switch :shrug: because neither the passenge or the switch on the driver side worked so I will def have one of those moments...after that I am going to clean the switches and hook up a test light and I'll let you guys know what happends. Thanks for the help.Daniel
ST165-2765
New member
Well I'm glad to hear it was the simple fix
When my passengers window was stuck down it was the middle of winter and I drove for about an hour in -20C weather (i dont know but I'm guessing about 0F) before I spotted the lock button and had one of those moments of brilliance :doh: and got some heat back in the car.
It's one of those things that will only happen once in your lifetime especially if it happens in winter :smokes:
That lock button should have a big red flashing light when it's activated :shrug:
When my passengers window was stuck down it was the middle of winter and I drove for about an hour in -20C weather (i dont know but I'm guessing about 0F) before I spotted the lock button and had one of those moments of brilliance :doh: and got some heat back in the car.
It's one of those things that will only happen once in your lifetime especially if it happens in winter :smokes:
That lock button should have a big red flashing light when it's activated :shrug: